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A Sophisticated Yet Friendly Welcome
Excelle - May - Huddersfield - Food & Drink
Review by Helen Alexander, April 2006
As we headed to CragRats Brasserie, near Hepworth, the journey would have been worthwhile for the stunning sunset views across the open countryside and hills around the Holme Valley alone. Needless to say we were in good spirits when we arrived at the brasserie, and our mood was lifted further when we discovered what a sophisticated yet friendly welcome was awaiting us.
In stark contrast to its off-the-beaten-track rural location, CragRats's interior is characterised by its stylish, contemporary feel. Sumptuous leather sofas give way to original and unusual artwork, while gentle hues of chocolate and cream are enhanced by subtle lighting to create an atmosphere is warm and serene. We sensed that, if the food lived up to the standard of the decor, we were in for a real treat.
We moved from this welcoming lounge area, through to the elegant dining space, where a crisply set table was awaiting. Here we enjoyed spicy chicken spring rolls, served with ‘balsamic reduction and cucumber yoghurt’, and New Zealand steamed mussels with black bean sauce and crispy seaweed for starters. Our choices reflect the global cosmopolitan feel of the menu, which is graced by unique and enticing dishes from around the world. Both of our starters were truly lovely, but the mussels in particular were fantastic - the best we’d ever had!
When our main courses arrived we realised that the chef’s flair for presentation mirrored CragRats's interior designer's, as our dishes looked right at home in their sophisticated surroundings. The lemon and thyme charred chicken breast, served with sautéed potatoes, vanilla polenta and herb cream presented a clever blend of subtle flavours. The chicken was full of flavour and texture, and the whole dish brought pleasure to the palette. Less subtle, but equally delicious, was the king prawn jungle curry. And, while the menu was distinctly modern, thankfully the helpings were traditionally generous!
We were recommended the house white - a Gran Hacienda, Santa Kita - to complement our poultry and seafood. This proved a deliciously light and fruity accompaniment to our meal, and refreshed our taste buds in readiness for our sweets. For dessert, we really pushed the boat out, and opted for a double chocolate fudge brownie with cream, and frosted ginger cake with clotted cream. The chocolate brownie was served warm, with pecan nuts inside, and both were deliciously indulgent.
Afterwards, we lingered over coffees, in no hurry to leave CragRats’s convivial environment. When we did finally tear ourselves away, it was with the firm resolution to return again soon, perhaps on a Sunday to try the CragRats twist to the traditional Sunday Lunch.
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